发现城市之旅 Spring into History: A Walking Tour of Shenyang

沈阳国际俱乐部(ICS ) 的24名外籍女会员聚在一起,参加了一次沈阳城市的探索之旅。这既是一次了解城市的过程也是一次发现自己的机会。

24 expat women of the International Club Shenyang ( ICS ) came together to learn more about their city and themselves on a walking tour of Shenyang

清晨,一群娘子军“探险者”在懒蜂窝国际青年旅舍门口集合——我们是来自8个不同国家的老外。我们凑在一起参加这次短途旅行,期待去发现沈阳不曾被留意的美丽。简单拍照过后,我们准备出发。沈阳的春天,还有点冷,道路两边的树枝才刚刚发芽,导游领着我们来到了这次行程的第一站。

On a crisp morning, a group of adventurers gathered inside the sunny rooms of the Lazy Bee International Youth Hostel. Our group consisted of women from at least 8 different countries. We had all come together to explore our city and meet new people along the way.After a quick photo shoot, we headed out into the bustling city streets for a morning of exploration. Our guide led us down streets lined with budding trees as we made our way to the first stop on our journey.

失败书店

Wall and Water Bookshop (Photo by ICS member)

对于旅居在沈阳的歪果仁来说,失败书店真是个秘密花园。这里小巧舒适,书架上摆放着许多中文,英文,法文以及德文的书籍。我们边看书边喝着热乎乎的咖啡,阳光从大大的落地窗透过,这感觉太美了!真希望不久能再次回到这来。

The Wall and Water Multi-Linguistic Reading Room is a treasure trove for book loving expats in Shenyang. Its shelves are lined with classics in Mandarin, English, French, and German just ready to be devoured by those who visit. A relaxed and cozy atmosphere of coffee, wide windows, and plenty of classic books made this an exciting find for everyone. I hope to come back and enjoy some quiet reading with a mug of hot coffee very soon.

失败书店

Wall and Water Bookshop

简单休息过后,我们继续行程,一路上有很多旧时东北军高级将领的公馆,我们不时停下来感叹这些故居的奇妙精致。如今,这些建筑大多数被政府所用。不得不推荐一下我们的导游,他的知识非常渊博,这些公馆背后的故事就像放电影一样被他娓娓道来。

From there we continued our trek, stopping frequently to admire the former villas of Dongbei’s most powerful warlords. Many of these opulent homes have now been repurposed for government use. Our guide was able to provide us with interesting details about the powerful men. Our knowledgeable guide made history come alive for us as he explained the stories behind many of Shenyang’s older structures.

左:汤公馆茶楼(旧汤玉麟公馆),右上:沈阳物资集团(旧张寿懿公馆),右下:民盟辽宁省委(旧张作相公馆)

Photo Collage of the Warlord Villas

下图的建筑是日本人1921年修建的。以前是日本殖民者的浪速女子中学,现在是沈阳第二十中学。这近百年,有多少学生在里面学习,外面的世界又发生了怎样天翻地覆的变化,我不禁胡思乱想一番。

The Japanese built this building pictured below in 1921. It originally served as a school for Japanese girls. In the present day, it is a Chinese middle school. I loved thinking of the many students that have walked its halls over the years and how the world has changed beyond its walls.

沈阳第二十中学

Chinese Middle School/Former Japanese Girls School

如今繁华拥挤的和平大街当年竟然是中国和日本势力的分界线,大家都被这个事实所惊讶!站在马路中间,看着川流不息的车辆,你绝对想象不到,在1905至1931年间,马路的右侧是中国统治区,而左侧则是日本租界。

I think the entire group was surprised to learn while crossing Heping Street that the now traffic-clogged road once served as the border between China and Japan. Standing in the middle of the busy street today, you would never believe that in the 1900’s it served as a border between the lands controlled by the two warring countries. In the picture below the right side of the road was occupied by Chinese forces, while the left side of the road marked the beginning of the Japanese border.

和平大街

Heping St. former Border

我们一边朝中山广场走,一边欣赏当年由日本人设计建造的这些老街道。如果没有参加这次活动,我一定想不到沈阳还有这样一块地方,和这个城市其他的地区如此的不同,无论社会怎样变迁,依旧保留当年的影子。沈阳突然变得生动立体,她有着自己独特的过去,值得你花时间好好去了解她。

As we approached Zhongshan Square, we stopped to admire the architecture of this Japanese designed street. Without this tour, I might never have stopped to think about the slight variances found here compared to the rest of Shenyang. This tour showed me that Shenyang is alive with its own unique past if you can just take the time to slow down and notice it.

北五马路

Beiwu Malu Street

沈阳街边小吃

Street food( photo by ICS member)

我们不时被街边诱人的小吃和精美的历史建筑所吸引,走走停停。好不容易才走到了中山广场,终于可以一睹传闻中“世界上最大的毛主席全身塑像”了。塑像建于1969年文革时期。作为中国历史的见证,它矗立在广场中心。对于我们来说,这是拍照的好地点,姑娘们呼啦一下,纷纷跳上台阶凹造型拍照留念。

After stopping to admire some street food and more elaborate and historical buildings, we finally arrived at Zhongshan Square to view the largest statue of Mao Zedong in the world. The statue was built in 1969 during the Cultural Revolution in China. It stands in the middle of the square as a testament to China’s history, as well as a popular spot for photos. Our group wasted no time jumping up on the steps to pose.

毛泽东塑像

Statue of Mao Zedong ( photo from internet )

中山广场

ZhongShan Square (Photo by ICS member)

中山广场周边的建筑大都建于上世纪30年代之前。离中国医科学院不远的是原日本关东军司令部(编者按:现大楼由盛京银行和沈阳总工会合用)… 每一座建筑都有故事,而最出名的是大和旅馆(编者按:现辽宁宾馆)。旅馆就在塑像正前方,我们非常有幸能够进到里面参观,据说毛主席曾在这住过一晚。我站在阳台,望着整个广场,想象着沈阳以及中国这些年的巨大变迁。

The buildings surrounding the square were all built before the late of 1920’s. The former headquarters of the Japanese Kwantung army stands near the historical Chinese Academy of Medicine building, both representing different periods of Shenyang’s history. The most prominent building, the famous Yamato Hotel where the chairman once stayed the night, stands directly in front of his statue. Our group was allowed to tour the lavish hotel and to see the room where Mao Zedong stayed. As I stood on the balcony overlooking the square I felt like I was looking down on the years of China’s many powerful leaders hustling past like the cars on the streets below.

从辽宁宾馆阳台看到中山广场全景

Yamato Hotel Balcony View of Zhongshan Square

我们以一顿美味的韩餐结束了当天的旅程。对于沈阳和她的历史我有了新的认识,相信不仅是我,每一位团友都有很多想要分享。强烈推荐所有对沈阳文化历史感兴趣的人,以及所有生活在东北的人,来参加“城市之旅”这个活动。快来报名下次活动吧!别忘了带着你的相机,穿一双舒服的鞋,以一颗好奇的心,来发现和探索。你绝对想不到你会发现什么。

The tour concluded with a delicious Korean lunch where the group was able to reflect of all that we had seen and heard during our busy morning. I had a new appreciation for the beauty and history of Shenyang after participating in the tour and I felt lucky to be able to experience it with my fellow expats. I would highly recommend the tour to anyone interested in learning more about Shenyang and the people who call Dongbei home. Join the next tour group and don’t forget to bring along your walking shoes, camera, and an inquisitive mind. You never know what secrets your city may hold.

作者自述 About Writer:

我是来自美国的 Cheyanne Lovellette ,我喜欢旅游,烘焙,写作,徒步和读书。我拥有TESOL的硕士学位,并很享受教中国朋友说英语的的过程。目前,我和我的丈夫Sean还有小猫Hagrid生活在沈阳。

My name is Cheyanne Lovellette and I'm an American expat who loves traveling, baking, writing, hiking, and reading. I have a master's degree in TESOL and enjoy teaching English to Chinese speakers. I live in Shenyang with my husband Sean and my cat Hagrid.

关于城市之旅‘CityTour’活动,请联系失败书店店主潘赫(微信号:kaantata)

For more information of 'CityTour', please contact with PanHe, the owner of Wall and Water Bookshop(Wechat ID: kaantata)

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文字及图片作者:Cheyanne Lovellette

Written&Photo by Cheyanne Lovellette

封面图片:张博文

Cover Photo by Bowen

图文编辑:Sophie

Edited by Sophie

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